Measuring and drafting device for garments.



m. 7||,eu. Patented Oct. 2|. I902.

A. ADELBERG. MEASURING AND DRAFTING DEVICE FOR GARMENTS.-'

. (Application filed Aug. 27, 1901.)

( No Model.) v 3 Sheets-Sheet l.

. N0. 7ll,6ll. Patented Dot. 2|, I902.

A. ADELBERG; MEASURING AND'DRAF'HNG DEVICE FOR GABMENTS.

(Application fi1ed Aug. 27, 4.901;)

' LNo Model.) 3 Sheets$heet 2.

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Pa tentad Dct. 2| I902;

a sheets-sheer 3.

A. ADE LBERG. MEASURING AND DRAFTING DEVlCE FOB GARMENTS.- (Applicationfiled Aug. 27. 1901.:

No. man.

( No Model.)

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UNITED I STATES 1 PAT NT OFFICE.

ABRAHAM ADELBERG, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK. I

MEASURING AND- DRAFTIN G DEVlCE FOR GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 711,611, dated October21, 1902. Application filed August 27, 1901. Serial No. 73,463. (Nomodel.)

State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inMeasuring Y and Drafting Devices for Garments, of which the following isa specification.

This invention relates to measuring and drafting devices for garments;and it consists in the apparatus hereinafterdescribed and claimed.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is an elevation, from one point of View, of myapparatus as applied to the trunk of a figure. Fig. 2 is an elevation ofthe same from another point of view. Fig. 3 is a plan view of the sameapparatus laid flat, portions being omitted to save space. Fig. 4 is aplan view of my apparatus laid fiat and when used for drafting. Fig. 5is an elevation of my apparatus as applied to measuring a skirt. Fig. 6is a view of the measuring apparatus shown in Fig. 5, and Fig. 7 is aplan view of an end'of one the rods attached to one of the standards ofmy skirt-measuring device.

The principal invention on which my apparatus is based is to make use ofa baseline around the figure of the person whose garment is to bedrafted and to measure from said base-line in lines set in planes atright angles to the plane cutting said base-line. For instance, a steelbase-tape is passed around the bust of a person to be measured, andthereto are slidingly attached a series of other tapes alwaysmaintaining a position at right angles to the base-tape. If these tapes(herein called the vertical tapes, although not necessarily vertical)are drawn in at the waist of the figure, it is obvious that they will becloser together at the waist than at the bust by just so much as thecircumference of the waist is less than that of the bust and that thesaid tapeswill expand again over the hips of the figure. (See Figs. 1and 86G. can be determined by subtracting from .between said verticaltapes the amount of difference between their distances when parallel andthe measurements taken on the figure. This system is of universalapplication to the measurement of figures and the drafting of garmentstherefrom, and it is to this general feature that this specification ispar ticularly directed. Other measurements may be taken as desired, andapparatus suited for retaining the base-line in its proper position isof course an adjunct to the main idea.

The measurement of the neck and of the portion of the figure and garmentbetween the neckline and said bust-line is effected bythe same method. Acollar adapted to be set around the neck and to contact and expand fornecks of different sizes has attached to it a tape which must alwaysstand in a plane at right angles to the plane of the collar.

This tape is attached with others to thebasetape which goes around thebust and to the collar,thus forming a secondary base-tape formeasurement of the upper part of the figure. The same method is employedfor measuring that portion. of the figure and for drafting that portionof a skirt extending from the waist downward and which is required tofit with reasonable'closeness. The number of vertical tapes at rightangles to the base-tape may vary according to the number of gores thatare to be removed or omitted from the waist or skirt pattern. I preferto use a number of tapes so corresponding tothe number of gores thatthere shall be one gore between two tapes.

I describe first the instrument as I prefer to use it for measuring thetrunk of a body or-for a waist or jacket. This is shown in Figs. 1, 2,and 3. A collar A is provided, consisting of a series of flat curvedsections of suitable material, such as brass or,-steel. In Fig. 3 it iscomposed of three main sections connected by hinges or pivots a a a.Each of these sections consists'of three parts, as I ICC contraction.

neck and to determine the front and back middle lines of the waist andof the shoulder positions, the sections are graduated so that theposition of each section may be determined. Graduations are made,preferably, on the middle sections a so that the side sections a may beset independently at variable distances from a middle line on thesection a This is important often, because, for instance, a person witha long thin shoulder must have the section a nearest the shoulder moreextended than the other section a of the same triplet of parts. To oneof the sections a is attached a stiff yet flexible measuring-tape B,that is hinged at b to said section a so as always to maintain aposition in a plane at right angles to the plane of the collarA,whichfirst plane passes also through the center of the collar A. The tape Bisfor measuring the vertical middle line of the back of the waist. (SeeFig. 2.) To the pivot a, whereby the collar may be opened and shut toplace it around the neck of the figure to be measured, is pivotallyattached the flexible yet stiff tape 0, which is for the purpose ofmeasuring the middle front line of the figure, as shown in Fig. 1, andto' one of the pivots a, is pivotally attached a slidingly-extensiblemeasure D, provided with a scale and with a set-screw 01, whereby thetwo extensible sections (1 and d of this scale may be fastened at anysuitable degree of extension or This measure D is for the purpose ofdetermining the position and length of the shoulder-seam. Upon the tapeB is a sliding collar 1), through which also passes at right angles tothe tape 13 a similar tape E. The tapes B and E both slide through thecollar b, and to this collar is pivoted an extensible two-sectionmeasuring-tape 17 having a set-screw and used for a purpose hereinafterdescribed. The tape B is long enough to pass down the back of the figurefrom the collar to and over the hips thereof. Upon the tape E is set aseries of collars f, f and f adapted to slide longitudinally on the.tape E and to which are attached a series of vertical tapes F, F, and FMore or less of these vertical tapes may be employed in any case, as maybe desired. The more that are used the more accurate will be the fittingof the garment for the measured figure. The collars to which thesevertical tapes F F F are attached are adapted to slide on the tape E andare permanently and not pivotally attached to the vertical tapes, sothat said vertical tapes, as well as the tape B, must always take aposition in planes at right angles to the plane of the tape E whetherthe tape E be curved or fiat. For womens figures another tape F passesthrough a collarf, that fits and slides on the tape E. The tape F mayslide vertically through said collar, but is always maintained at rightangles to the tape E. This last tape F is used for obtaining theposition of the most prominent portion of the figure in order todetermine the position of the upper end of the dart. Set-screws f f f ffasten the collars of the tapes F F F F at the desired positions on thetape E. In order to maintain the different parts in proper place on thebust, slidingly extensible tapes provided with setscrews and of thesamecharacter as those described with reference to the shoulder-tape Dmay be provided as follows: The tape b running from the intersection ofthe bust or base tape E with the back tape B to a point at or near theouter end of the shoulder-tape D, is fastened thereto by means of a pin(Z adapted to pass through a perforation in the end of the tape 6 Onextending or contracting the tape 1) and setting its set-screw b theshoulder-line tape D may be accurately set, and a similar tape G,attached to the intersection of the front tape 0 with the base or busttape E, extends to and by a perforation in its end sets over the pin (1on the end of the shoulder-tape. In this way the height and position ofthe shoulder-tape D is accurately determined. The tape E is supported atits proper height from the collar A by the back tape B, the set-screw b,the front tape 0, and a pin 0 or other fastening for connecting the tapeG, the tape 0, and the tape E. Other tapes, if desired, may be employed,such as the tape H and the tape J, each extending from one of thecollars on the tape Eas, for instance, that carrying the tape F to oneof the set-screws, such as a on the collar-piece A close to theshoulder-tape D. The tape J may run from the collar f carrying the tapeF upward to one of the setscrews, such as a close to the point ofattachment of the front tape 0 with the collar A. The tapes Z7 H, and .Tare of the same extensible character hereinhefore described and areprovided with set-screws b 71., andj and have graduations, as shown, sothat the degree of extension or contraction can be accurately recorded.To the end of the shoulder-tape D is fastened one end of a flexiblemeasuring-tape K, fastened at one end to the end of the shoulder-tapeand passing through a collar 70, that slides on the tape E. Themeasuring-tape K is preferably cylindrical and is made conveniently of asuitable indiarubber or gntta-percha tube, having a stiffening materialthrough its bore, such as a piece of whalebone or spring-wire, wherebythis tape can be bent in circular directions, but cannot be elongated,This may be called the armhole-tape. It is graduated, as are the others.In order to measure the trunk of the figure, the tapes I) and G arelifted from the pin d and the collar is opened at the set-screw a. Themeasuring device is then placed upon the figure, with the arm resting inthe armhole-tape K, and the collaris expanded or con-' justed withreference to the middle of the back, and then the tape E is set aroundthe figure, thetwo ends being fastened by any suitable fastening. Theheight of the bust or base tape E is then properly adjusted on the backtape B and the front tape 0, which last tape is adjusted to the middleline of the front of the figure. Then, dependent upon the desiredposition of the gores and of the dart, the tapes F, F F3, and F areshifted sidewise on the tape E until their desired positions arereached. Then the tapes 5 and G.

are fastened on the pin d and are extended or contracted and arefastened by their respective set-screws, so as to hold the intersectionsof the front and back tapes with the bust or base tape E in definitepositions. Then the tapes H and J are fastened to their set-screws in,the collar, being extended or contracted to suit the figure. The tape Fis raisedor lowered until its lower end or its zero-graduationcorresponds with the most prominent portionof the bust. parts are inposition for measurement. Now an ordinary tailors tape-measure L isplaced around the waist of the. figure and another similar tape-measureM is placed around the hips in a line indicating the lower edge of thewaist or jacket or the lowest point where the waist or jacket must fitthe figure closely. These tapes L and M are fitted closely over theseries of downwardly projecting steel tapes B, F, F F and C, so as todraw in said steel tapes evenly and without sidewise flexing. Theoverlapping ends of the tapes L and M are then fastened by means ofclips or pins in any suitable manner for holding the parts in theposition shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Now the readings are taken from thevarious scales and the distances from each other of the tapes B, F, F Fand O and are recorded. This device I have shown as applied only to halfof a figure--viz., the righthand side thereof. The device may, however,be made double, so as to measure all points on both sides of the figure,which in many cases is desirable, and in all cases whereextremely-accurate fitting is desired a double-sided measuring device isemployed; but it is not thought necessary to show it or to describe itparticularly herein, because the two sides will correspond exactly witheach other. I may employ this particular device for drafting thegarment; but I prefer to use a modified form. (Shown in Fig. 4.) In thisthe shoulder-tape D instead of being single is made double, as indicatedby D D and the armhole-tape K is permanently fastened at k to the end ofone of. these shoulder-tapes, as.

D, and passes through the collark on the base or bust tape E and thencethrough the collar 10 on the end of the other shouldertape, as D. Bymeans of graduations on the Thus all the ment shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 3and is then laid fiat on the cloth or paper on which the garment is tobe drafted. The dotted line L is the position of the tape L at thewaist. The lower lines M correspond to the position of the tape M uponthe hips. It is obvious that from the bust diameterto the waist theremust be aproperly-graduated reduction in size for the waist, and this inactual garments is produced by cutting the parts so as to have theeffect, actual or apparent, of removing triangular pieces from thepattern or cloth. Inthe instance shown the vertical tapes F, F and F areso arranged on the figure that gores 0 0 o and a dart o are, as it were,removed from the cloth, the gore 0 being between the, back tape B andthe first vertical tape F, the second gore 0 being between the tapes Fand F the third gore 0 being between the tapes F and F and the dart obeing between the vertical tape F and the front tape 0. If the bustmeasurement was forty inches and the waist measurement was twenty-sixinches and the distances between the vertical tapes was, in inches, asfollows: B to F, bust, four and one-fourth, waist, two and one-half; Fto F bust, three and onehalf, waist, two and three-fourths; F to F bust,four and one-fourth, waist, three and one-half, and F to G, bust, eight,waist, four and one-fourth and then the measuring device or the draftinginstrument correspondingly set is laid upon the pattern, the amounts tobe taken out at the waist-line for the gores and darts are for the gore0 at the waist-line, one and three-fourths inches; for the goreo,three-fourths of an inch; for the gore 0 threefourths of an inch, andfor the dart 0 three and three-fourths inches. The upper end of the dartis determined by the selected point in the scale on thetape F Thedistances of the dilferent points in the waist-line from the bust orbase tape E is of course determined by vertical heights on the tapes B,F, F F and O, and on the waist-line L in the pattern or garment aremarked the amounts to be taken out'for the lower ends of the gores anddarts. So, too, the hip measure is laid out in like manner, it beingnecessary to adjust,

however, the lower edges M in a manner well known to garment-cutters.The total lengths of the edges M of course are made equal to the totalcircumference of the hips shown by the measure M. (See Figs. 1 and 2.)In drafting I find it convenient to draw a line at right angles to thetape E, and therefore-pan allel to the tapes B F F F from theintersection of the tapes E and O and to base the amount to be taken outfor the dart by the difference between the bust measure and the waistmeasure, as if the line was represented by an actual vertical tape. Theamounts to be taken out on the waist-line being marked on the patternand being set substantially in termediate between the tapes, it ispossible, by means of flowing curves, to determine accurately thepositions of the edges of the gores IIO and darts, as shown in Fig. 4.While the measuring instrumentis on the body, the armhole may bemeasured by the tape K, so as to determine accurately the length of thecurve from the shoulder-tape to the collar 7; on both sides, and thattape being set in the drafting instrument by means of the graduationsupon it, so that they correspond exactly, the shape of the armhole isaccurately determined. So, too, the other distances from differentpoints on the tape E to the collar and shoulder tapes are accuratelydetermined, as is obvious from the drawings. The tape C does not standat right angles to thetape E, and in Fig. 1 is thus shown. Itsangularity with reference to the tape E of course determines itsangularity with reference to the right-angle tapes B F F F F*', and thelength of the extensible tape G determines this angularity.

The various tapes forming part of the m easuring and drafting instrumentare preferably made of steel or spring-brass, so as to be capable ofinward and outward flexure when placed on the body in order to becapable of contraction about the waist-line; but being broad and thinand incapable of sidewise fiexion for this reason they are rigid in onedirection and flexible in another. In the drawings it is deemedunnecessary to show numerals on the graduations of the various tapes.The extensible tapes are all made in the same way of two pieces. In thecase of the tape G, for instance, one piece g is graduated and has onits end a clip g passing partly or entirely around the other section 9The section 9 bears a collar 9 passing wholly or partly around the tapeg, and a set-screw on the collar 9 is adapted to clamp the sections g gin any desired position of extension or contraction.

The device for measuring the skirt is more simple than that hereinbeforedescribed, but is made upon the same principle and is of the sameinvention. In regard to the devices for measuring and drafting the waistor jacket the base-line is made around the bust by'the tape E and is setapproximately in a horizontal plane. For a skirt the base-line is alsoset in a horizontal plane, and special means are provided for so settingit, which special means may be used or not, as desired.

The skirt device, both for measuring and drafting, is shown in Fig. 6and is shown in position on the customer in Fig. 5. It consists of thebase-tape E and the vertical tapes E E E E E, and E (all being made of amaterial that is flexible and strong, such as steel or spring-brass,)each vertical tape being attached to a collar 9 that fits and slides onthe tape E, and which always has the tapes E to E ,inclusive,at rightangles to the base tape E. This tape E being placed around a figure orover the skirt already in place, the tapes E to E both inclusive, extendupward and are held in at the hip and waist lines by the ordinarytailors tape-measures L and M. If the base-tape E is set in a horizontalposition, it will of course be parallel to the floor, and the distancetherefrom to the lower edge of the skirt, according to the fashion ofthe time, is easily determined; but in order to fit the figure closelyover the hips and at the waist, I prefer to use such a number ofvertical tapes E to E as that each gore to be taken out at the waistshall be between a pair of tapes. One tape, E I prefer to set in. themiddle of the front and one tape-say E --at the middle of the back, thusleaving two tapes E and E and E E on each side of the body. In thepresent case there will be six gores to be removed or omitted in orderthat the skirt shall fit the figure. The circular measurement betweenthe tapes E to E inclusive, will give the proper dimensions and theexact positions of the different gores, and will produce an accuratefitting of the garment without the tedious series of fitting heretoforemade necessary by prior systems of cutting and means of measurement. Inorder to maintain the base tape E in the horizontal position, I preferto use a framework, such as I will now describe, consisting of asuitable base N, having attached to it a number of vertical standards PP-not less than three, for instance. These standards are graduated, andon each of them fits and slides a collar 29, and transversely movable ineach of these collars is a rod 29. The rod and collar are convenientlyfastened to the standard by means of a single set-screw 17 The end ofthe rod 13 has a slotp as shown in Fig. 7, that fits upon the tape E,and by this means the tape E may be set accurately at a suitable heightand in a horizontal position or otherwise, as may be deemed best. If theposition of the tape E is accurately determined, even though it may notbe horizontal the cutting of the skirt can still obviously be madeaccurate. The setting of the collars 1) upon the standards P ofcoursedetermines the exact position of the tape E. This tape E is, likethe tape E, a base-tape, and has the vertical tapes E to E bothinclusive, maintained at right angles thereto, just like the tapes B toF", both inclusive, for measuring and drafting the Waist or jacket.

In the device shown in Figs. 1 to 4, inclusive, the important andessential part is, as just suggested, the base-tape E and the verticaltapes B F F F, the remaining parts being properly considered adjuncts oradditions thereto. Consequently the tapes E and E are the same. Thetapes B, F, F and F are the same as the tapes E to E differing only innumber, which number depends entirely upon the number of gores to betaken out or measurements which the operator desires to take. With eachof these devices any number, more or less, of the vertical tapes havingcollars adapted to slide on the base tape and to maintain the verticaltapes at right angles thereto may be provided and employed.

ICU

In the foregoing the term bands and tapes as employed with reference tothe measuring and drafting instruments imply the use of such devicesflexible inward and outward from the figure, but not flexible insidewise directions. In other words, the tapes are flexible in thedirection of their thickness, but not in the direction of their width.The collar A is preferably inflexible. The collar A, with itsattachments to thetape or band E, is a supporting meansfor the band Eand is used to determine the position of the plane of the band E withreference to the horizontal.

The apparatus shown in Fig. 6 is used also for determining the' shapeand size of the sleeves, as the steel or brass tape E is very.

flexible. It may be used with two, three, or four of the vertical bandsE to E and the tape E may be placed around the elbow and measurementstaken therefrom to the armhole-line, including the swell or looseness ofthe sleeve. The device is then turned around and measurements are takenfrom the elbow downward to the wrist, thus giving the exact dimensionsof the sleeve-pattern. Two of the tapes in this use of the device ofcourse extend along the normal seam positions and the other tapesdetermine the differences from parallelism and the amount to be takenout or omitted by thesame method as has been described with reference tothe waist.

' What I claim is- 1. In a measuring and drafting instrument forgarments, the combination of a graduated base-band having graduatedvertical tapes each tape being adapted to slide longitudinally on thebase-band and. so connected thereto as always to be at right angles tosaid base-band, and supporting devices for determining the relation ofthe plane of the baseband when upon the figure with reference to thehorizontal comprising a collar-piece consisting of graduated three-partsections, two of said parts adjustable with reference to a middle lineon the middle or third part, one of said vertical tapes being connectedat right angles to one of said middle or third parts, substantially asdescribed.

2. In a measuring and drafting instrument for garments, the combinationof a graduated base-band, having a series of collars adjustablelongitudinally thereon, a series of graduated vertical tapes permanentlyattached to said collars whereby they are always maintained at rightangles to said base-band, and supporting devices for determining therelation of the plane of the base-band when upon the figure withreference to the horizontal comprising a collar-piece consisting ofgraduated three-part sections, two of said parts adjustable withreference to a middle line on the middle or third part, one of saidvertical tapes being connected at right angles to one of said middle orthird parts, substantially as described.

3. In a device for measuring and drafting waists, jackets and the like,a rigid expanst. ble collar-piece having graduations, a back bandBattached thereto and at right angles thereto, a front band 0 attachedthereto, a bust-band E attached at right angles to the band B andcapable of motion thereon, a series of vertical tapes, as F, upon saidbustband E, adapted to slide on said bust-band and maintained at rightangles thereto, the front band 0 being adapted to be attached also tosaid bust-band, and other expansible and contractible supporting-bandsattaching said collar-piece to said bust-band E, substantially asdescribed.

4. In-a device for measuring and drafting waists, jackets and the like,a rigid expansible collar-piece having graduations, a back band Battached thereto and at right angles thereto, a front band 0 attachedthereto, a bust-band E attached at right angles to the band B andcapable of motion thereon, a se-' ries of vertical tapes, as F, uponsaid bustband E adapted to slide on said bust-band and maintained atright angles thereto, the front band 0 being adapted to be attached alsoto said bust-band, and other expansible and contractible supportingbandsattaching said collar-piece to said bust-band E and an expansible andcontractible shoulder-band attached to and extending from saidcollarband, substantially as described.

5. In a device for measuring and drafting waists, jackets and the like,a rigidexpansible collar-piece having graduations, a back band 13attached thereto and at right angles thereto, a front band 0 attachedthereto, a bust-band E attached at right angles to the band B andcapable of motion thereon, a series of vertical tapes, as F, upon saidbust band E, adapted to slide on said bust-band and maintained at rightangles thereto, the front band 0 being adapted to be attached also tosaid bust-band, other expansible and contractible supporting-bandsattaching said collar-piece to said bust-band E, an expansible andcontractible shoulder-band attached to and extending from saidcollar-band, and a graduated armhole-band attached to the shoulder-bandand passing through a sliding collar on the bust-band E,substantially-as despribed. v i

6. In a measuring and drafting device for garments, a collar-piece Aconsisting of three parts, a back portion and two side portions;

a bust-band E, a back band B, and a front band 0, each connecting thecollar-band with said bust-band an arm-band K, shoulderseam mechanismconnecting said arm-band with said collar, and supporting-bands J and Hconnecting the bust-band with said collarband, substantially asdescribed.

7. In a measuring and drafting device for garments, a collar-piece Aconsisting of three parts, a back portion and two side portions abust-band E, a back'band B, and a front band 0 each connecting thecollar-band with said bust-band; an arm-band K, shoulderseann mechanismconnecting said arm-band with said collar, supporting-bands J and H Iconnecting the bust-band with said collarl Witnesses:

with the intersection of the front and back bands with said bust-band,substantially as described.

ABRAHAM ADELBERG.

band, and diagonal bands connecting the NELSON E. SPENCER, outer end ofthe shoulder-seam mechanism F. BISSELL.

